EDUCATIONAL COURSE

Self/Partner Rescue

Would you know what to do if your climbing partner was injured mid-climb? Climbing can easily lead us into dangerous situations where being self-sufficient can make the difference between life and death. How would you deal with a stuck rope, too short a rope, bad weather, a mandatory retreat, or an injury that could leave you and your partner incapacitated? MAG’s Self Rescue Course is designed to teach participants the skills and techniques necessary to improvise a safe way out of a crisis situation.

We will utilize the standard equipment used on a typical day of climbing. These techniques can be effective on snow, rock, and ice. Topics include:
- Safety planning, risk assessment, management, and mitigation
- Raising/hauling systems for self rescue – 2:1, 3:1, 5:1, 6:1
- Pick-offs – patient pickoffs for self-rescue, multi-pitch Descents with a patient
- Rappelling (standard, extended, counterbalance, tandem, and pre-rigged)
- Lowering systems – with a munter, tube-style device, autoblocking device, and brake-assisted device
- Rope ascension techniques – friction-hitch systems, autoblocking devices, and assisted braking device
- Escaping the belay- from above or below; off an autoblocking device/anchor or your harness
- Anchor options and systems
- Passing knots, load transfers
- Knots bends, and hitches used in self-rescue
- Load releasable hitches: munter-mule
- Equipment use and improvisation options
Climbers enrolling in MAG’s Self Rescue course should have experience in multi-pitch climbing. Private courses are available for those lacking this experience.
Upon completion of our Self Rescue Course, participants will have acquired the knowledge to carry out a straightforward self-rescue in the midst of vertical climbing terrain.
- Professional guiding and instruction
- All technical equipment (ice tools, boots, crampons, helmet, and harness)
- Food, water, transport, lodging
- Technical clothing, backpack, etc.
- Rescue insurance
- Trip insurance
- Guide gratuity
- Unforeseen expenses from circumstances outside of Montana Alpine Guides’ control
Please see our Ice Climbing Equipment List for the required equipment for this trip. Technical equipment (ice climbing boots, crampons, ice tools, helmet, and harness) are included in the cost and can be provided. This must be coordinated in advance (especially boot sizes!)
Please see our Registration, Cancellation, and Refund Policies.