Itineraries for 2-3 Day Ice Climbing Trips in Wyoming or Montana

Oct 4

We’ve put together a list of some great options for a 2-3 day ice climbing trip to three of the best ice climbing destinations in the US: Hyalite Canyon; Cody, Wyoming (South Fork of the Shoshone); & Cooke City, MT. While there is an abundance of other options in each grade at each location these are a few of the classics that may help minimize planning fatigue for visiting climbers. Please do your own research on conditions and hazards of each climb including exposure to avalanche terrain, risks in high winds, exposure to sun, etc.

ITINERARIES

Hyalite Canyon: 2-3 Day Ice Climbing Trip

Many talented alpinists have cut their teeth in the world of ice and mixed climbing in Hyalite Canyon. It shines as a place of easy access to all grades from WI3- to WI6, M3-M12, bolted or traditional, easy access to remote alpine objectives. The climbing is reliably in shape December 1st to April 1st every year. Access is by way of a plowed USFS road, with approaches as close as 10 minutes from the parking area. There is an abundance of cragging and many multi-pitch climbs at all levels. For those who wish to escape the crowds there are also many climbs high above the valley floor.

Water Ice 3 Climbs

Day 1: Warm up day at Genesis 1 left side & Lower Green Sleeves

Day 2: The Amphitheatre Climbs with options for mixed climbing

Day 3: Silken Falls. End your trip with this classic moderate 3-4 pitch cimb

Water Ice 4 Climbs

Day 1: Crag moderates at Unnamed Wall or G1 area

Day 2: Champagne Sherbert (WI 4) & Champagne Slot

Day 3: The Dribbles (WI 4-, 3-4 pitches) or
Water Ice 5 Climbs

Day 1: Mummy 2, Scepter, & The Matrix

Day 2: Killer Pillar (WI 5) & Bobo Like (WI 5, 3-pitches)

Day 3: Cleopatra’s Needle (WI 5, 3 pitches) & other routes

Water Ice 5+/6 & mixed Climbs

Day 1: Unnamed Wall climbs

Day 2: Mummy 2, 3 & 4 (3 pitches)

Day 3: The Big Sleep or Cleopatra’s Needle area climbs

Multi-Pitch mixed

Day 1: Winter Dance (M7/8, WI5+/6, 3 pitches)

Day 2: The Jocko-Phillip (M9/10, WI6, 4 pitches)

Day 3: Zack Attack (3-5 pitches, M3, WI5)

Cooke City, MT: 2-3 Day Ice Climbing Trip

Cooke City is home to amazing ice climbing and the deepest snowpack in the state. Our ideal trips to Cooke City involve a mix of ice climbing and backcountry skiing. Practitioners of each sport will easily fill days of fun doing one or the other. It’s a spectacular venue in the early season when access can be easier due to road closures. Due to its high elevations the routes in Cooke form early and stick around late. This area is quite complex and documentation has been scarce. We know the locations well and our guides have established many first ascents in the area. If you decide you want an adventure in lesser traveled locations get in touch to arrange a trip.

WI 4 Ice Climbs

Day 1: Cragging at Valhalla (Colter Pass), November 15-December 31st

Day 2: Blue Moose or Marlboro Madness

Day 3: Blue & The Green and mixed climbs

WI 5 to WI6 Ice & Mixed Climbs

Day 1: Chadwick’s Pillar & mixed variations. Jim Smith Peak

Day 2: The Booger (2-3 pitches on Jim Smith Peak)

Day 3: Cragging at Valhalla (Colter Pass)

Cody, WY: 3 Day Ice Climbing Trip

Cody’s South Fork of the Shoshone is home to the highest concentration of multi-pitch ice climbs in our area from moderate to advanced options available. Even the moderate climbs require a higher level of mountain awareness and experience. Cragging is virtually non-existent in the South Fork of the Shoshone. Most approaches require at least 45 minutes over challenging terrain. The rugged nature of the South Fork adds to the overall wilderness experience. It sits within USFS wilderness land and on the edge of the largest roadless area in the contiguous US.

Water Ice 3 Climbs:

Day 1: Main Vein (WI 3+, 900’)

Day 2: Stringer (WI3, 400’”

Day 3: Smoked Turkey (WI3, 500’)

Water Ice 4 Climbs:

Day 1: Cabin Fever (WI4, 200’) link into Wyoming Wave (WI3, 3 pitches)

Day 2: Moratorium (WI4, 2 pitches)

Day 3: High on Boulder (WI4, 3 pitches) or Mean Green
Water Ice 5 Climbs:

Day 1: Broken Hearts (WI 5, 5 pitches)

Day 2: Joy After Pain (WI5+, 3 pitches)

Day 3: Ice Fest (WI 5, 70m) worth the 1.5 hour walk

Water Ice 5+/6 & mixed Climbs: