Ice Climbing Boot Review: Scarpa’s Phantom Tech
Footwear is one of the most important pieces of equipment for ice climbing along with gloves, ice tools, and crampons. A good ice boot needs to be supportive, stiff underfoot, dextrous in the ankle, firm fitting, warm and dry. Scarpa’s Phantom Tech excels in all of these needs. I have exclusively used Scarpa’s Phantom Tech since 2016 and its predecessor the Phantom Guide 2010-2016. It has been used extensively every year including: 4-month ice guiding seasons (Hyalite & Cody’s South Fork) with Montana Alpine Guides, bolting new routes, long approaches in scree and boulder fields, technical multi-day mountaineering, and steep ice and rock mixed climbs. This boot has always been a great fit right out of the box and I continue using it year after year.
The built in gator system
At first appearance it looks to be cumbersome and clunky due to its built-in gator, but that’s simply the over-boot designed to keep your feet dry when climbing dripping ice (or quickly running through a creek in Hyalite or Cody's South Fork). After years of heavy use I have never had issues with the waterproof zippers (though others report it) and have never had wet feet. Use the zipper lube if you find any resistance in the gator zip system.
Inside the gator you will find a highly dexterous ankle area and the option to crank down the lacing to keep the heels down and fit tightly in the boot. These two components are key to a good ice boot, along with warmth of course, which it also meets my needs.
Where and how they have been “tested”
My first season on these boots I climbed personally and guided 4-5 days a week with Montana Alpine Guides in Hyalite Canyon, Cody’s South Fork, and high elevation areas in Cooke City, MT. This entails rugged approaches on snow, ice, and on rock/frozen dirt. Ice climbs ranged from long mellow romps to overhanging technical ice and mixed climbs. New route development and the approaches in Cody are high abuse to boots and the Phantom Tech has held up well.
I took the Phantom Tech up Cerro Torre’s Ragni Route in Patagonia. They were comfortable on the 2-day approach up and over Marconi Pass (no blisters) and they performed outstandingly well on the multi-day climb.
My hardest mixed routes to date have all been with this boot. I have never committed to “fruit boots” as I kept finding that the Phantom Tech performed well enough for someone who does not actively pursue dry mixed climbing. The dexterity of this boot performed well up to M10 grades where figure 4’s were not required.
Cold Performance
Montana and Wyoming can be extremely cold. They have kept my feet warm as low as -15. On the coldest of days (below -15) it was crucial to move around. If you plan to climb in sub -15 temps frequently I'd upgrade to the Phantom 6000 or plan on an objective that allows you to move continually.
I have tested other boots but continually return the Phantom Tech for all winter ice and mixed climbing year after year.
